ISTANBULDAY

Here commences one of the most perfect days, which goes to prove, if you are ever feeling down and someone puts up an invitation to do something, do it!

The day begins with my variation on a Turkish breakfast; no olives and cheese yet, it will take me a while to be able to eat savory food in the morning, so instead I have plain yogurt, various jams and Turkish coffee (caffeinated drink count: 1).  We eat on the beautiful terrace of Onni's hotel, which of course has a beautiful view of the Sea of Marmara, because, due to some awesome assembly of factors, virtually any view one has in Istanbul includes a beautiful body of water.

After breakfast, Onni and I quickly head over to the mini bazaar near the Blue Mosque to get the leather jacket she had asked a man to keep for her.  Then we get serious: the Grand Bazaar.  First stop is the shop where I got a Damascus-style knife for my brother last year, where we spend half an hour sitting, conversing, having cay (caffeinated drink count: 2) and doing business with the shopkeeper; this is how it's done here, and it's great.  Onni buys a similar knife for her father, but the entire knife is encapsulated in camel bone, which the shopkeeper assures me, is taken after the camel is killed for meat-eating purposes.  If you are going to eat an animal, I fully support using the entire animal.  So, yay.

the map of Istanbul I really want to get....

Then we leave to begin the search for my favorite carpet-dealer, Zeki.  Zeki gave me my first carpet & kilim lesson last Fall, and also sold me a rug...without accepting any payment until it was cleaned and had been shipped to me, amazing, right?  So I had to find him, which is no small feat in a bazaar with over 4,500 shops.  But I will always remember Zeki.  We eventually find the shop, and Zeki isn't in yet, but his mentee spends half an hour giving Onni the same lesson I got last year, complete with another cay (caffeinated drink count: 3).  We discuss natural vs. chemical dyes, the different styles of Konya, Persia, Bulgaria, as well as Cicim patterns and prayer rugs.  After intense scrutiny of dozens of rugs, Onni chooses the one for her, and I pick a little one that will go perfectly in my apartment room. I will always find your shop, Zeki!

Onni getting a real feel of a Turkish carpet

Then we are off to the spice bazaar, stopping on the way to buy un-fun but necessary things such as hangers and towels.  Then the spices, oh the spices!  I get a huge bag of dried fruit (they have mangoes!!!!! and strawberries, apples, pears, pineapple, etc), a bag of pistachios, another bag of pine nuts, yet another bag of dates....and then I get to the spices :)  I do not know exactly what I purchased; there was some red pepper, cinammon, cumin, etc....all that mattered was that it smelled. so. good.

after dropping off our huge bags at the hotel, I take a slightly timid Onni to the Cemberlitas hamam - the best hamam in all of Turkey, in my opinion, although I am wildly unqualified to say that.   Cemberlitas is one of the oldest existing hamams, and is where Ambassador Montague's wife, Lady Montague, went when her husband was stationed in Turkey in the early 18th century.  Her description of Cemberlitas in her letter to a friend describes how women derobed from their conservative clothing to reveal their beautiful selves without the modesty that typefied(s) the culture.

For those of you who haven't experienced a Turkish bath, it is quite amazing.  You walk into a dome-shaped room that has beautiful star-cut shapes in the ceiling to let in beams of light.  Directly beneath the dome is a circular marble slab that you place your towel down on and lie on until one of the matronly women calls you to the side for your turn.  Once you lie on the side of the slab, you are scrubbed. thoroughly. with a special scrub pad.  Then they fill a pillow-like fabric with soap and slather that all over you, rinse you off, scrub you some more, massage you, wash your hair, rinse you again, and send you off to the pools!  There isn't really a frigadarium like in the ancient Roman baths, but Cemberlitas has a tepidarium - medium heat, tho it's pretty hot -and a caldarium - hot hot - (most modern Turkish baths don't have these pools).  Onni and I opted to pay an extra 20 TL for a half hour massage - that's 20 TL (about $14 for a half hour massage). 

After our massages we decided not to check out phones to see what time it was or if anyone had contacted us....instead we would do away with our American ways, and instead sit and have another cay (caffeinated drink count: 4).  So we have a lovely cay and chat, and then get ready to head out for an early dinner, because, we have a boat to catch!

We go to a great restaurant where I get an array of warm, stewed vegetables (eggplant, potatoes, green beans, green and red peppers, carrots) with yogurt, and another variety of cold stewed vegetables (really quite deliciously seasoned), complete with fresh bread...all for about $6.50 - another yay.  We then head out to catch our sunset tour of the Bosphorous that a bunch of the kids on the abroad program are going on - 10 TL for 1 1/2 hours cruising up and down the bosphorous at sunset, touristy, yes....amazing, yes.

When we return from our cruise, I decide to be thoroughly lazy, and, with my bags full of spices, dried fruits, nuts, hangers, towels and a rug, take a cab.  It was lovely.  35 minutes, 42 TL back to my apartment...not to be made a regular habit of, but good to know it is not too impossible...at least until I find a more Istanbul & dog-friendly place.

tata for now :)